Shortly after we arrived in Kotor on 15 November we began to see small signs of the approaching Christmas season. At first it was just a matter of seeing lights strung all about, especially in the Old Town. Not just in piazzas, mind you, but in many of the narrow streets leading to them. Large wreaths began to appear, one over the Western Gate of the city, another on some of the benches around the entrance. Then, a number on the facades of the churches and on buildings.
In the last week of November, in the piazza outside the Old Town, we saw a dozen small huts. These, we figured, would be the Christmas market for the town. (Remember, Kotor is a tiny place!) Sure enough, on the first Sunday of Advent, the small huts opened. Tables for people to stand and eat or drink lined both sides of the huts. Truth to tell, we have been a little disappointed. We had hoped it would be more of a market. Or at least a variety of seasonal goods and foods offered. But they have all turned out to be places for food and drink (really, drink). And as far as we can tell, neither seems particularly seasonal.
But this is not to say that Christmas in Kotor has been disappointing. On the contrary. The place looks lovely. It is beautifully done up, with lights and wreaths strewn everywhere, a large Christmas tree right outside the city gates, and establishments offering mulled wine and the like. There are concerts almost every evening at the Christmas market as well as in the churches and the town hall. There are not many tourists around, which is either good or bad depending on your point of view. (In our view it’s good!)
There are a number of evening concerts too, both outside the city walls and just inside. The music is mostly pop, lots of artists we’ve never heard of. (But everyone else seems pretty excited!) And the crowds and the music and the mulled wine combine to make a very pretty scene.
Now as it happens, Montenegro follows the eastern rite and so their big Christmas celebration comes not on December 25 (what they call here Catholic Christmas) but on January 7. December 25 is a regular day here in Montenegro, with stores and restaurants open. The big celebrations are coming up: New Year’s Eve (which is a big deal here) and then January 7, Orthodox Christmas. That day is the holiday and everything is closed so that families can be at home celebrating.
Since we’re away from family this year, we are having a low-key Christmas day, which is concerned mostly with (surprise!) food. We went to the farmers’ market on Saturday to prepare and got lots of local goodies, including some nice bread (the best we’ve seen in Montenegro so far), baked cherry cake, dried figs and cranberries, four kinds of cheese, two kinds of prosciutto, and some vegetables and a whole fish to roast. (Plus we’re making our world-famous bourbon chocolate pecan pie, with some alterations.) Thanks to our lovely Airbnb hosts here in Kotor, we also have a little Christmas tree.
We wish a wonderful holiday to all of you who celebrate.
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