We could have spent all day with the huskies, but alas, we only had a short time with them. So we moved on to the port city of Malacca (aka Melaka), about a two-hour drive from Colombo.
Malacca has been an important port since the early 15th century. The city was founded by Parameswara, who had been king in Singapore, but fled when it was taken by the Majapahit empire. During much of the century Malacca had close relations with China. In August 1511 the Portuguese admiral Alfonso de Albuquerque conquered the city. Thereafter the Dutch and then the British ruled it.
The exciting centre of Malacca is Jonker Street, with numerous shops and restaurants. It’s smack in the middle of Chinatown, which you can tell because giant dragons greet you as you enter. We were there at lunchtime, and had to go to three places before we could find one where there was seating available. It was a small family-run place, and the food was delicious (especially the beef rendang).
We spent nearly an hour in the The Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum, a house still owned by the Chinese-born Chan family, who lived there from 1861 until 1985, when the house became a museum. There are two floors of fine furniture and artwork, along with family photographs and family shrines. Beautiful woodwork, including an immense dining room table, abounds. The place still has very much the feel of a family home.
Afterwards we walked along the central area by the Malacca river (where we passed by the Hard Rock Café Malacca) and came to Dutch Square, with some of the oldest buildings in the city. They also call it Red Square, which you’ll understand when you see the Christ Church that stands at its centre.
Just beyond the square, you can climb up to get a spectacular view of the city and beyond. On the hill, you are sure to notice the remains of St Paul’s Church, long abandoned, with only the outer walls still standing. Inside there are a number of tombstones and a few other pieces from what was once the church and surrounding area. Memento mori, indeed.
This area also contains remains of what was once the fort area of Malacca. A few cannons adorn the area. Most interesting of all, perhaps, is the original gatehouse, now very worn but still standing. It is one of the few Portuguese monuments still to be found in this part of the world.
One of the most fun things about Malacca is how gaudily the tuk tuk drivers decorate their vehicles. Tuk tuks (named for the sound their motors make) are the ubiquitous three-wheeled vehicles which move people around throughout southeast Asia. There is room for two people in the back, though it’s not unusual to see four or five piled in. The drivers vie among themselves for who can drive the most dangerously, so each ride is an experience. In other cities there are a few ornaments on or in the tuk tuk (e.g. religious statues), but in Malacca, the drivers go all out. Cheesiness abounds, and the themes include lots of familiar characters (superheroes, Disney characters, and so on). They also, regularly, play music on boom boxes.
So at least when you take your life in your hands, you can be surrounded by glitz!
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