As you know, our whole deal is spending enough time in a place to get to know it. That means we aren’t typically swooping around to see the sights. But while we’re in Norway, we really wanted to see Bergen, for any number of reasons. Everyone says it’s spectacular; it’s the gateway to a famous train ride and some amazing fjords; it’s a former capitol and trade powerhouse. And Laurel’s great-great-great-etc., Dirk Holgerson, made his way from there to Amsterdam (and eventually, the family moved along to New Amsterdam). So he’s the guy to whom all the New World Fulkersons owe their life-long task of teaching others to spell and pronounce us – thanks, Grandpappy Dirk!
We had a whirlwind trip, and every part of it was darn good. First, an awfully-early train from Oslo to Bergen, which took seven hours. The train itself goes almost due west across Norway, and has some of the most attractive scenery we’ve ever peeped at (we sat on the right side going west and east – both awe-inspiring). We knew, but didn’t really know, that glacial melt has filled the whole country with running water and lakes. In fact, Laurel had to recalibrate upward the category of things out the window beautiful enough to poke John about. Sheep gamboling amidst the lichen? Nah. Waterfall plashing down for thousands of metres? Probably not. Rainbow and misty lake and snow-capped mountains? Yes, ok. But only the first time.
Bergen itself is also gorgeous, even in the rain (as promised!). We were staying in Bryggen (the ‘harbour’ but, this being Norway, there are several of them). This is the one with the adorable wooden houses and medieval cobbled streets. And there’s a cool fortress, a beautiful park with a fountain, the public art we have come to expect, and lots of great buildings, stately churches, etc. The Fløibanen (funicular to Fløyen) is fun and gives you a spectacular view of the harbour. We also hiked around up there in the rain, enjoying our appropriate-for-the-weather clothing.
Also – and you won’t be surprised to hear this – we were keenly interested in the food of Bergen. We had an excellent and traditional Norwegian meal at Pingvinen, including fish pie, meatballs, and an amazing jerusalem artichoke and potato soup. Right in the old harbour, there’s also a Fisketorget (fish market) with stalls for food to take away and also seats. Full marks for creativity: not only fish and chips, fish soup, and lobster, but seafood paella as well. Off to the side is a food hall, with a couple of sit-down restaurants and some take-away sushi and fish sandwiches; it also sells cheese and bread and ice cream. We had some exquisite whiskey at the exquisite Grand Hotel Terminus’ Bar Amundsen. Last but not least, we had the best meal of our lives at Lysverket.
The guidebooks say Bergen has a ‘student vibe’ and – having lived in a university town – we know just what they mean. We expected, and found, tons of divey bars, cheap ethnic food, and a lively nightclub scene. But – even though we were there during the first week of classes – there was significantly less vomit in the streets than we’re used to. (Or maybe we were just looking in the wrong places.)
We made the right choice to live in Oslo, but we loved our visit to Bergen!
