If it wasn’t for several of you asking, we wouldn’t have thought to write a post on what it is like to be an American woman in Istanbul. But you did, so here we go! Laurel has travelled a lot in her life, sometimes alone and sometimes with other women (which, in a lot of the world, = alone). There are places where this is no big deal at all, and places where it is, frankly, a pain, or even dangerous.
Istanbul is not one of those places. It is, officially, a secular nation. It is also a very European city. At least in some parts: we have recently begun saying that Istanbul is a cross between Vienna and Mumbai, depending on which block you’re in. And being a woman in Istanbul is also like being a woman in Europe or a Muslim nation. It depends on which block you’re in. Still, wherever you are, even in our religious neighbourhood, it does not feel the least bit unsafe or strange. That said, the not-so-many Turks we’ve spoken to here are concerned about the immigration of refugees, many from Syria, and often more religious than they themselves are. So things do feel as though they are in transition, and not in a direction that will be welcome to all.
Walking Around
Laurel has spent some time wandering around by herself here, partly to get a better answer to the question of what it feels like to be a lone American woman in Istanbul. She has not received any particular attention, day or night. Part of this is because there are people everywhere, so what might in other cities be a deserted street is here crowded. And part of it is because she doesn’t necessarily look American. Turkish women, in Istanbul at least, run the gamut of dress (see below), so there is nothing unusual about how Laurel dresses.
People sometimes offer Laurel a seat on public transportation. But more often, they offer John a seat (he looks older, we guess). We’re all jammed up together in there, and so there is a lot of toe-stepping. No groping (unlike thirty years ago – but this is certainly not unique to Istanbul). Then again, Laurel is very possibly less appealing to would-be gropers than she was thirty years ago. Which is in itself a gift.
Clothing
Women must cover their heads and their knees in mosques. And not really anywhere else in Turkey. Though they may be more comfortable dressing modestly outside of big cities and resorts. Laurel once swam in a t-shirt and sweatpants in Oman, winning acclaim from her guide for being ‘extra-modest’! So she doesn’t mind covering up. Laurel has also sometimes worn a scarf in public; it starts off feeling itchy and strange but you stop noticing it fairly quickly. Especially when the alternative is becoming the center of attention.
And there is a lot to be said about how Turkish women themselves dress. It’s one of the first things we noticed. Laurel has been paying attention to this, and has seen women together that she would not have expected: for instance, one with pink hair and a miniskirt talking in a café with one in a hijab. Or what looks like a multigenerational grouping, with the younger women covered and the older women uncovered. Like most things related to culture and religion, this is a complicated issue: we wish we knew more! (Here’s a quick guide from Cornell University’s Library on the basic garments worn by Islamic women.)
Interactions
Men tend to prefer interacting with John: they will not bring Laurel the check, for instance, if they can avoid it, and they ask him for directions. Women in stores, though, sometimes grab at her to ask her something in Turkish (men don’t do this, ever). And of course we have seen women without men paying bills, buying things in stores, hailing taxis, you name it.
Speaking of which, travelling without men in many places in the world means that you are granted a kind of honorary-man status. In fact, it can offer the best of both worlds. You have the freedom to hang out with the fellows playing backgammon, but also to speak with women, which male travelers cannot.
In sum: if you are a woman alone in Istanbul, or even a woman with other women in Istanbul, you will be fine. If you are young and/or pretty, you will receive some attention but it will not be overwhelming.
I recently spoke to a Black female friend of mine mentioning that Laurel was in Istanbul & had been there twice before because she enjoyed it so much. I assume that my friend’s negative comment came from being black & alone. She told me she did not feel at all comfortable & would not go back. Found the contrast interesting. Any comments?
Thanks for writing, and interesting! We have not seen many solitary Black women here. There are families from Africa (mostly Somalia/Ethiopia, it looks to us), but few western Black families. We suspect the Turks are more familiar with Asians and people from the Middle East. And so – especially if this was not recently – your friend probably received a lot of attention.