Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar: Grand, But Only a Little Bizarre…

A couple of weeks ago, we mentioned our trip to the Spice Bazaar, a starter market to test out your bargaining skills. Since then, we’ve put on our big-girl and big-boy pants and gone to the Grand Bazaar. Twice, even. We aren’t in the market for anything, but it’s still a fun place to experience. The Turkish name for the Grand Bazaar is Kapalıçarşı, or Covered Market, and indeed it is, beautifully so.

It’s also enormous. Most consider it the largest market in the world (some in Asia rival it). It’s certainly the largest covered market. It’s also the oldest market in the world (constructed in 1455, with additions and renovations throughout the centuries because of fires and earthquakes). And the Grand Bazaar contains restaurants, half a dozen mosques, fountains, public toilets, and even a post office. Plus over 4000 shops on over 61 streets (some exceedingly narrow). These streets are named after the things (that used to be) for sale on them. And – immediately outside its dozen or so entrances – you will find even more stalls, where the rents are lower and so the bargains may be better. The goods are also less touristy, i.e. you can find appliances, clothes, etc. But let’s stick to the eye-catching vortex, shall we?

First: this is not a good place for the easily over-stimulated or distracted. We caught the picture below just after the market opens: by mid-afternoon, crowds fill it. It is smart to have some sense of what you might be in the market for. You can get a sense of what’s for sale by looking elsewhere in Istanbul. And every one of the things for sale here is available in many other places, so if you panic easily, you might just buy somewhere else.

Here are some of the main things people buy:

• Carpets – we feel sad we don’t live anywhere every time we see one! Laurel bought a carpet 30 years ago and still loves it. (It has not faded a bit.) This could be pricey, so do have some idea of your budget and, ideally, take a professional bargainer with you. On the plus side, you will almost certainly drink some cups of tea, so the actual cost of the carpet will fall by about a dollar. (Two if you bring a friend.)
• Leather goods – bags, jackets, etc. Especially designer fakes. We’ve heard that some of the factories that make the genuine articles are in Turkey. Which explains why they are so good. These run up to the couple-of-hundred dollar range. Also sneakers and designer clothing, for substantially less.
• Scarves – our #1 pick for easy-to-pack souvenir for mom and all the other ladies on your list. Prices range from a couple of dollars for a colourful one made of polyester to several hundreds for silk or fine wool.
• Jewelry, especially gold – some of it eye-catching, with precious metals. You will probably not find any bargains, but undoubtedly lovely stuff.
• Chatchkes – Turkey has a great many of these. We are partial to the tiles (of course we are!), the evil eye-warder-offers, and the big red fezzes. We also like the copper (which has its own section, though many stalls also sell it).
• Edible things – spices, honey, Turkish delight, nuts, baklava, you name it, they will try to sell it!
• Costumes from the Ottoman era, knives, swords, helmets, belly-dancing outfits.
• There are also a lot of really cool less-touristy things, like belt buckles, old photographs, keys, and meat.

They estimate that nearly half a million people come into the Grand Bazaar every day. We like it best when it’s less crowded (before noon). But it’s also fun during busy times. That doesn’t mean, however, that you will escape attention. Every shop has a handful of guys (nearly always guys) looking like they are doing nothing but drinking tea and smoking cigarettes. Do not be fooled. They are working, and if you even think about looking toward them they will leap up and start their spiel, taking you by the arm and/or offering food. A fun thing to do is notice what language they address you in. We usually get English but sometimes, when John is in front, Spanish or Italian. And occasionally Russian.

Our single best tip for exploring the Grand Bazaar is not to be in a hurry. Also, we recommend stopping for lunch at Havuzlu, a locantasi in the northwest section of the bazaar. The food is excellent (you get to go look at it, so no need to know much Turkish) and it’s spacious and well-decorated.

If you take your time and keep your wits, you will love this assault on the senses! In our opinion, the only stressful thing about the Grand Bazaar should be finding your way out of it. If you get lost here (and in other markets like it around the world), you can always pay a small boy to lead you out of it. Or – but this is really no fun at all – download a map and navigate your own way!