Food

Brown Cheese and Waffles: Two Great Tastes

We’ve been hearing a lot about the Norwegian delicacy brown cheese and waffles, so we thought we’d better give them a go. (This short video from Jonathan at Haralds Vaffel will give you a clear sense of how much Norwegians like their waffles. There’s even an organization that gives waffles to homeless people.)

Waffle with brunost

A few caveats, though. Brown cheese is Not for Everyone, and Norwegian waffles are different both from the kind in North America and from Belgian waffles. We’ll get to brown cheese in a moment, but here are some things to know about waffles in Norway. First of all, they are thin and not very crispy (sometimes they are decidedly soggy), and they are typically heart-shaped. Second, instead of buttermilk the batter has sour cream (sometimes milk) and cardamom (check out our recent experiences making cinnamon and cardamom buns). And third, like fruit but not like cookies, they are an anytime food (see Cookie Monster on the difference). Mostly, however, they are not a breakfast food. We’ve seen them topped with eggs and sausage, caviar, ice cream, berries, hotdogs, butter and jam, you name it!

Waffle with blue cheese

But Norwegian waffles are most often, and most classically, served with brown cheese. Norwegian brown cheese, or brunost, is a caramelised whey cheese, usually made with goat’s milk. If this helps, it’s similar to the Dutch gjetost (‘goat cheese’). Brown cheese, favourite of Norway, is an acquired taste, sweeter than some people think cheese has any right to be. (It did not take us any time at all to acquire this taste.) A Norwegian-American we know suggested that brown cheese should occupy the same conceptual space as processed peanut-butter. It has the same color, same general consistency, and same flavour profile. And sure enough, brown cheese regularly appears with jam, on and off waffles, and it features in lunch boxes and after school snacks across the country. Most cheese is too snooty for that, but not the humble brown cheese.

Waffle with blue cheese and bacon, deconstructed

So: how are brown cheese and waffles together? Surprisingly good, actually. We worried the combination would be too sweet but the cardamom in the batter (and maybe the sour cream) cuts the sweetness nicely. And it turns out that Norwegian waffles are an excellent vehicle, providing an excuse to eat cheese. Not that you ever need an excuse to eat cheese. Speaking of which, we have no problems with brown cheese, but our very favourite Norwegian waffle topping is bacon, blue cheese, and honey – fantastic!

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