There are many pilgrimage routes in Ireland, including, most famously, Croagh Patrick mountain (which Laurel has been to, some years ago). But this post is about the pilgrimage to St James in Compostela, and its unusual connection to Dublin. Or, as we call him in these parts, St Seamus.
St James’ Gate in Dublin, where the Guinness Brewery is, takes its name from a holy font and a church of St James nearby. That church was founded in 1170 by Henry II of England (more on the Norman entry into England coming soon), as penance for his (alleged) responsibility for the murder of Thomas Beckett, Archbishop of Canterbury.
Pilgrims gathered at this gate for their pilgrimage, and they sailed to Bordeaux, usually with wine merchants. (This is our kind of pilgrimage!) Apparently, the wine-boats equipped themselves to fight against the pirates operating in the Bay of Biscay, and so it was a safer way for the pilgrims to travel. From there, they crossed the Pyrenees into Spain, taking the Camino Frances route, which was by far the busiest. Post-wine boat, the trip took about thirty-seven days; pilgrims walked about thirty miles a day.
There were many churches on this site; the currently operating Catholic Church is across the street from the medieval church. But the 1859 Church of Ireland church, deconsecrated in the 1960s, lay in ruins until a fella named Pearse Lyons bought it in 2014 and turned it into a whiskey distillery. (We’ve been to other distilleries in Dublin too!)
The church has been beautifully restored, with stained glass windows depicting various stages of whiskey making, as well as the biggest, dedicated to the pilgrimage route. You’ll see a number of the iconic scallop shells in the church, which symbolize the route. Either because pilgrims used the shells as food and water bowls, or because it has many paths that converge. There’s also a story about a knight, or a horse, covered in scallop shells.
As you know, if you’re a dedicated reader of the blog, we’ve been thinking about walking the Santiago de Compostela. So we think we’ve found the perfect starting point: a whiskey church, followed by a booze cruise. And then a wee walk!
I just finished walking the Camino de Santiago de Compostela from Portugal! It was terrific, and I was in Santiago for Saint James Day, when they have a big mass with the botafumeiro. Do it, you’ll be glad you did!
The Portugal route is the one we’re most interested in (what with the coasts and all). We’ll get in touch when we start making plans!