We were lucky enough to be in Sri Lanka during full moon day, a monthly Buddhist holiday celebrated here. Sri Lankans call them poya days, and they mark important events in the life of the Buddha. These include his birth, his renunciation of the world, his enlightenment, his first sermon, and his death. All of which, allegedly, occurred during a full moon. Hindus celebrate most of these on a single day, but Buddhists separate them.
Buddhists throughout the east celebrate by visiting temples dressed in white (or mostly white) and making offerings of flowers. There are loads of flower-sellers right outside the temples, selling purple lotuses and all sorts of other beautiful flowers. On poya days many stores and restaurants closed (as we found out the hard way). Businesses are closed, and most people have the day off. We love the idea of a monthly holiday, and it was wonderful to see so many people celebrating with their families at the temples.
Traditionally, though, full moon days involve a break from family obligations too. Observant Buddhists meditate for much of the day. They also fast after noon (at least some of them do). And no alcohol or meat are for sale on these days in Sri Lanka. Buddhists also seek merit (through virtuous deeds) on these days in particular. Indeed, four angel-like figures scour the earth on poya days looking for those doing good – and also evildoers!
The history of Buddhism in Sri Lanka goes back a long way. In fact, it dates to the third century BCE when the daughter of Ashoka, Sanghamitta, came here to plant a bodhi tree. This is the tree under which the Buddha meditated. And so, every Buddhist temple in Sri Lanka contains a bodhi tree. We saw the one she is supposed to have planted at Anuradhapura (the old capital of Ceylon), which may well be the oldest tree planted by humans.
We will have more to say about the way Buddhism plays out in Sri Lanka – it is rather different from the westernised idea of universal harmony, and Buddhist monks in Sri Lanka played an important role in the recent history of the country (including in the civil war). In the meantime, though, we wish you a happy full moon day (17 Sept.)!
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