One of the cultural experiences that is most characteristic of the South Pacific, from Melanesia to Polynesia and even Micronesia, is kava, a plant-based substance steeped and drunk. Technically, it’s a drug, with effects similar to alcohol and marijuana, but milder. Naturally – being suckers for the novel – we gave it a try! Spoiler alert: we liked the chocolate and rum better!
How to Make Kava
Take a big hunk of piper methysticum roots, dried. Steep them in a straining bag in warm water. Remove; squeeze dry; and enjoy. Or, that’s what the internet will tell you. Here in Vanuatu, however, they do it more traditionally. In Fiji, we are told, the plant is pounded. But in Vanuatu, it’s chewed; human saliva apparently increases the effects. Yes, that’s right: the kava you drink in Vanuatu has already been in someone else’s mouth. Which, obviously, made us even keener to give it a go…
How to Drink Kava
So we chose the Pikinini Bar. (Yes, we know. ‘Pikinini’ is Bislama for ‘children’…) Children do not drink kava, but adults do, and the Pikinini Bar serves juices and smoothies for them. The Ni-Vanuatu usually drink kava at the end of the working day, before dinner (to heighten its effects). One orders a half-shell or a full shell and, indeed, it comes in a coconut shell – at least for locals. We noticed that there seemed to be two separate brews; we suspect we might have been given the weaker tourist one, which also came in a much fancier bowl. For a full shell (tourist price) you will shell out 50VUV, roughly $.40 USD.
In some parts of the South Pacific, such as Fiji and Samoa, there are elaborate kava ceremonies. Kava can unite villages, soothe troubled families, etc. We had read and been told by others that kava is a serious, after-work, men’s drink. This happens in Vanuatu too; kava is part of the opening of Parliament, for instance. But in Vanuatu, everything is a lot more casual. Many brew their own kava, but you can also buy it in bars, more or less anywhere. Indeed, a lady who worked in our hotel invited us to come home with her to drink kava. But we never managed to coordinate with her.
In the shell is the kava, which has the appearance of milky coffee or muddy water, light brownish but not thick. The amount is about what you could swallow in one big gulp, and a big gulp is the way to go for many reasons. The first is that’s how the locals do it. And the second is that you are likely to want to savour the taste of kava as minimally as possible. Friends, it tastes like ass. More specifically, grassy, muddy, peppery bitter ass. But one does not drink it for the taste.
The Effects of Kava
Here’s what we read: numbing of lips and tongue, mild sleepiness, feelings of well-being and calm, reduction of anxiety. Here’s what we experienced: meh. Numbing of lips and tongue, yes. Maybe a little sleepiness and calm.
So, all in all, not an experience we’re keen to repeat. Maybe we should have drunk more (but really – how could we have, given the taste?). Or maybe this is not the drug for us. Either way, we will chalk this one up to experience!
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