Given how much time we spend there, we thought we ought to mention the Limassol marina and promenade (molos). As you may remember, we live half a block from the water, so when we’re not walking along it, we’re looking at it! The molos is about a kilometre long, and we’re near the eastern end of it. There’s a running/bike trail, which we run on, and also a paved section for walkers. And then there’s the water – not all of it is beach; there are also some rocks. Halfway down, it becomes broader, and there are small playground areas, sculptures, and places to park cars. There’s even a set of outdoor gym equipment which is usually in use by someone or other.
Cafés dot the whole and we have spent whole mornings sitting at one or another of them, watching the people. Depending on the time of day, there are also vendors selling orange juice, popcorn, and cotton candy. In the evenings there are usually buskers and musicians. And, speaking of time, our favourite thing is to watch the temporal transitions that occur here.
Just after sunrise, hearty older Cypriots go for a dip in the Mediterranean. There are several public showers and restrooms conveniently located. And then – research shows that one healthy habit leads to others – they drink coffee and smoke cigarettes. Some of the men play backgammon. There are also lots of runners and cyclists, usually younger, most of whom don’t stop for a smoke. Most of the cafés don’t sell food until later in the day, so people usually bring their own (even in the Caffé Nero, which does sell food). All of this excitement, naturally, attracts the cats, and we’ve befriended those at our regular haunts. They’re fed every morning and evening by some organised group, and all day long by people like us. We’re always surprised to see them near the water: they don’t seem to mind it at all. Sometimes, especially on Sundays, huge groups get together for cookouts.
Shortly after the older and athletic set come the mothers with small children. This is always a fun time, except for the cats, who fear for their lives. Many of the children have scooters, which gives them a fighting chance against the cats, who dive for the bushes with a haste born of painful experience. Caregivers are gradually replaced toward lunchtime by people having important phone meetings, students, and the idle rich. Many of these people have dogs, who have made a bargain with the cats that they will ignore each other. After lunch, children often return, and more students come. Sunset brings groups of families and hand-holding couples. And evening is for the drinkers and diners.
At the far end of that long, lovely walk – which sometimes takes us all day – you come to the Limassol marina. It has a pier with more bars and restaurants (including a Jamie Oliver Kitchen – we thought they’d all closed, but apparently it was just in the U.K.). We have our regular gelato place, as well as a couple of bars we try to keep in business. Further still you will find the Cyprus International Sailing Club, where Laurel is taking sailing lessons (remember our New Year’s Resolutions? John has been finishing a long-term project in Cyprus, but Laurel is halfway through her training to be a skipper.)
Indeed – in stark contradiction to our usual practice – we have gotten to know this bitty strip of land extraordinarily well. The rest of Limassol, especially the old town, is great – don’t get us wrong! We love the castle, and we’ve found some excellent restaurants. But – as even some cats know – nothing beats the water.
