We’ve been moving around the Balkans recently (most especially in Belgrade and Sarajevo), and we’ve learned a lot about what not to do. For a number of reasons, some political, some geographical, getting around the Balkans is trickier than you might expect. Here are our tips for travelling around the Balkans.
Renting a Car
This was our first idea. It’s not a bad one, especially in summer when the weather is better. You are likely to need an international driving permit, and many companies will not allow you to take their cars into other countries. So ask a lot of questions before you rent. We decided it was too much of a hassle, and so we opted for public transportation. We’re really glad we did – the roads were tough-going, and the weather was terrible!
Taking a Plane
This works well in some cases. It’s the most expensive method, naturally, but it’s fast and easy: and truth to tell, it’s not that expensive. Airports are often, however, a little far from the centres of towns and in some countries, taxis are expensive. So it’s worth looking into public transportation before you arrive. (On the other hand, in some countries, taxis are super cheap…)
Taking a Train
We love trains! And taking trains works well in the areas where there is train service. But there is not nearly as much of this as you might expect, for those geographical and political reasons we mentioned. The prime example of this is getting between Belgrade (the capital of Serbia) and Sarajevo (the capital of Bosnia-Hercegovina). Two neighbouring national capitals, pretty close by: it seems obvious that there ought to be a train. But there isn’t one.
The Bar (Montenegro) to Belgrade (Serbia) route is supposed to be one of the prettiest routes in Europe. But it only runs during the night in the winter, which means that you won’t see any of that prettiness. That said, for the routes where there is a train running at a time you like, the scenery is stunning and the fares are low. We had a delightful and beautiful train ride from Sarajevo to Mostar. Trains are perfectly comfortable, and run on time. But not all have dining cars, so check ahead, and take food and water.
Taking a Bus
To our surprise, we have found taking buses to be the easiest means of travelling around the Balkans. Nearly every place, however small, has a bus station, and buses to most of the places you want to go leave at least once a day. Though for many places it is only one a day! This being the Balkans, drivers feel strongly about the importance of a good meal, so there are usually rest stops at places with food every three or four hours. There will not be a toilet on the bus, and there may be an additional charge for stowing your luggage under the bus. There may also be a charge (usually minimal) for ‘using’ the bus station. In this case, you will need a token, purchasable at the station itself (see next section).
Speaking of Belgrade-Sarajevo, only one bus a day along this route takes you to the central bus station. The several others take you to East Sarajevo in the Republic of Serbia (which is very firmly located in Bosnia). It’s not complicated to get to the centre of town – you walk about 500 metres to the right of the bus station and catch the 103 tram into town – but it is an additional step. Also, make sure you have the right currency (see next section).
Money and Customs Tips
If you are old enough to remember Europe before the Euro, then you will get a kick out of the fact that the money changes on you every time you leave a country. (Or you will hate it.) Whether you remember this or not, do keep in mind that relations between a number of these countries are not good. So in some cases, the minute you leave one for another, your money becomes worthless.
Which means it’s a tricky balance between leaving enough money to pay for food and water on the way (and luggage and bus station charges) and running out. But these are all very inexpensive countries and reserving ten euros a person will more than cover your needs.
Despite the sometimes chilly relations between these countries, border controls are very easy. More often than not, they will take your documents and hand them back. Sometimes on buses, you will all file off and stand in line, then the bus will pick you up on the other side. This is usually fast, but there’s usually a long and slow line at Dubrovnik (the Croatia/Montenegro border), so leave lots of time for this if you have anywhere to be at a particular time.
We hope you find our tips for travelling around the Balkans useful!
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Thanks for your general Balkan tips, guys. I’m wondering if you managed to cross borders with buses but avoiding the capitals?
E.g. I’m planning to go from Ohrid across North Macedonia to Bankso in Bulgaria, but want to avoid going back to Skopje or up to Sofia. Maybe you guys didn’t travel that particular path but maybe you had similar situations? If so I’d love to know.
Im starting in Romania & wish to cross from Romania into Kosovo given so hard to go from Western Romania into Serbia too. I might have to go via Szeged and then south.
Any tips very welcome! Cheers,Julie
Hi Julie! We couldn’t find any way to avoid capitals. (But we are by no means Balkans experts.) Sorry not to be of more use. We’ve heard amazing things about Bansko – have a great time there!