We typically write about the neighbourhood in which we live. But here in Seville, we find ourselves fascinated by the one across the river to the west, Triana. Here’s why!
Triana Market
Yes: we came for the food. We’ve already talked about the Mercado Triana, but it’s worth mentioning again. We get amazing veggies and seafood here. (Plus all kinds of things we don’t know what to do with, like the above.) We also love stopping by one of the many small restaurants and eating whatever looks most interesting.
History
Triana’s name might come from the Roman Emperor Trajan, who came from nearby Itálica. Or it could have to do with the tri-fold nature of the river right there. Or something else. In any case, it’s been a site of human habitation for nearly 2000 years! During an unfortunate period, it served as the site of the Inquisition, and the basement of the market hosts exhibits about that history.
Triana was once the poor part of town, and lots of gitanos (Roma), Jews, and sailors lived here. The gitano connection means it’s still a hotspot for flamenco dancers and musicians. Triana is also home to many famous bullfighters, both historical and contemporary. And finally, Triana used to house the potter’s quarter, so many of those stunning ceramics so characteristic of Andalusia were made here. There’s even a ceramics museum, where you can see exceptional historical and contemporary pieces.
The area is a little grittier than the historical core of Seville, but there are still tons of lovely colourful buildings, and the street along the river, Calle Betis, is full of restaurants and bars. We find ourselves here just about every other day, wandering around its lovely streets and stopping for a bite to eat.
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